May 21, 2025
Soca Rel, Pure Mallorcan Wine
- By
Hélène Huret
Soca Rel, Pure Mallorcan Wine
May 21, 2025
by
Hélène Huret
Soca Rel, Pure Mallorcan Wine
May 21, 2025
by
Hélène Huret
Soca Rel, Pure Mallorcan Wine
May 21, 2025
- By
Hélène Huret
Soca Rel, Pure Mallorcan Wine
May 21, 2025
- By
Hélène Huret
sustainability
Soca Rel, Pure Mallorcan Wine
May 21, 2025
- By
Hélène Huret
Soca Rel vineyard, Photo: Duncan Kendall
W

ith Soca Rel, a Mallorcan expression meaning “of pure stock,” Pep Rodriguez makes wines like others make rock'n'roll – in his garage. Here, there is no architect-designed winery or fancy tastings, but rather, a hangar whose double doors open onto the countryside and vineyards.  Native, untreated grape varieties grow surrounded by grasses, flowers, shrubs and fruit trees. Behind Binisallem you can see the twin mountains of Alaro. “These mountains,” explains Pep, “are the remains of a sierra, not as high as the Tramuntana, which has eroded over time. This gives us land where the vines can take root up to 5 metres deep.”

In this bucolic, seemingly untamed landscape, everything is thought through and has a purpose. The trees create shade, which lowers the temperature: in summer, at the hottest hour, there's a 12°degree difference between vines in the sun and those in the shade. The hedges that line the fields form a tunnel through which the air cools. They also serve as a larder for wildlife. Pep has also created watering holes, allowing the animals to quench their thirst without touching the grapes. As the weather changes every year, so does the way the soil is cultivated. “This year,” explains Pep, “it rained a lot, so I'm going to lengthen the plant cover time to allow the excess water to be absorbed by the plants growing in the field so that the grapes don't get waterlogged.”

Soca Rel is the secret garden of Pep Rodriguez, a rock'n'roll-loving farmer-winemaker with a passion for local varieties. At the outset, nothing predestined him to become a winemaker other than a love of the land. “I was born in Capdepella in 1971, a village near Palmanova and Peguera, where tourism was highly developed.” At 17, Pep didn't want to become a mechanic like his father, nor did he want to work in tourism. With his long hair and his Black Sabbath t-shirt, the winemaker confides, “I never communicated well with society. Tourism wasn't for me. The other option was construction, but I felt that a lot was already being built and I didn't want to contribute to that.” The countryside calmed him down. So Pep worked in the fields of a Mallorcan property. “We grew cereals, olives and fruit, and had donkeys, sheep and pigs.

Soca Rel vineyard, Photo: Duncan Kendall
Soca Rel vineyard, Photo: Duncan Kendall
T

he owner knew all the local varieties. He explained to me how each was adapted to Mallorca. It was traditional, sustainable and ecological before its time.” In their heyday, the possessions - large rural estates where farming and stockbreeding were practiced - were run by families from the local aristocracy. But by the end of the 1980s, they were a mere shadow of their former selves. “I was earning half as much as my friends were earning in tourism or construction, and by the end of the 1980s the poor man couldn't pay me anymore,” recalls Pep. 

He worked for a farmer who dreamed of making an ecological wine, with no additives, no inputs, nothing. In the early 1990s, no one in Mallorca had ever heard of organic wine. This first experience connected him with the world of wine, even if the result of their production resembled Modena vinegar. “It was then,” admits the 54-year-old, “that I began to love wine. When I was young, I hated wine as a reaction to my father, who loved it too much!”

The Jose Ferrer Bodega, which produces up to 800,000 bottles, a solid business established since 1931, recruited Pep Rodriguez to work in the vineyards. “At first, I felt like I was working for industry. Ferrer was the island's leading wine-producing bodega. That was 28 years ago, I'm still there and I don't intend to stop.” But Pep had a dream to plant local grape varieties to produce exclusive Balearic wines. “Back in the day Ribas and Can Majoral had experimented with gorgollasa. I knew there were plenty of other varieties to discover.”

“What I'm looking for is for my wines to represent their terroir here and now. My ambition is for an oenologist to make a wine from our local varieties that achieves 120 Parker points.”
Soca Rel vineyard, Photo: Duncan Kendall
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