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One Stich at a Time: Heidi Hankaniemi
May 6, 2026
- By
Blaire Dessent
sustainability 2030
One Stich at a Time: Heidi Hankaniemi
May 6, 2026
- By
Blaire Dessent
With a touch of subversiveness and humour, Heidi Hankaniemi creates art that questions stereotypes around so-called ‘women’s work’, and shines a light on the potential of textiles and hand-stitching to tell a story. Born in Finland, Hankaniemi studied at Central St. Martins in London before moving to Madrid, Toronto and then to New York, where she established herself as a visual artist for nearly two-decades. After exhibiting some of her textile-based work at Xtant, in 2024 and 2025, she decided to spend time in Palma, where she temporarily has a small studio and showroom. She will present several new pieces in the 2026 edition of Xtant, opening on May 9th.
B.D.
Tell us about getting on the path to be an artist. You attended Central St. Martins, in London? What drew you to that city and what did you focus on in art school?
H.H.

After receiving my IB -Diploma in Oslo, Norway (where I lived for 3 years then, and then again for two years as an adult), I had come across somewhere that St. Martins was “the Best Art School in the World” so that’s where I was determined to go! I had some friends in London, so I was already a little familiar with the city. Finland had joined the EU just before which made it easier to study abroad. I started with a Foundation Diploma at CSM originally thinking I’d continue into illustration but then went for Critical Fine Art Practice / Conceptual Art, a more theory-based degree instead. St. Martins was still on Charing Cross Road in London’s Soho at that time. Our CFAP department was above the legendary Fashion Department so it was a very cool and creative time all around…

"Narrative Threads" Exhibition in New York
Fix Habit performance work in Toronto
B.D.
When did you first get into sewing and textiles as a medium in your artwork? What appeals to you about working with these mediums?
H.H.

Although I’m fuelled by a more conceptual approach to art I’m truly a maker at heart. There was a real appreciation for the handmade growing up. My grandmothers and mom sewed and knitted, and I’ve done it myself since I was very young. I always made things on the side, most people around me have a scarf or quilt from me but I didn’t combine textile-work with my Fine Art practice until later on. I had an illustration commission for a wonderful Swedish-Norwegian magazine Fjords for which I backstitched some subway-maps; to use such an intimate slow technique to describe a massive transport system felt fascinating and opened my eyes to the “magic of the stitch.” The history of textiles is so layered, interesting and important to us as humans; we were weaving long before we were writing. I love the physical, the tactile and the meditativeness of working with textiles. The idea that handmade objects have a physical memory and carry stories of their makers within them is essential to my work today.

B.D.
You’ve described your Blooms series as a process of rescuing forgotten handiwork by anonymous women and celebrating their work. It’s very powerful to think about these flowers coming together and sharing their stories.
H.H.

This project goes back to the idea that handmade things absorb “something” from their creators. So I like to join these women/makers through their handiworks and give them a place to flourish together. Nowadays about 90% of the materials [I use] come to me as donations, handiworks made by grandmothers and aunties that have left behind in a box in the attic. I genuinely feel that it is an honour to give them a new “existence” and try to do it in a beautiful way.

Sour Words installation, New York
"There is a rich history of textile work being used as a form of resistance under the illusion of it being a gentle “women’s craft;” Mary Queen of Scots’ prison embroideries in the 1500s, women knitting coded messages in scarves for their husbands in war, or Gee’s Bend quilts."
Pile of "Wanker" Handkerchiefs
B.D.
Talk about how performance fits into your practice, and this element of subversiveness.
H.H.

The work is often more about the actual process of creating something, such as a Mending Action, or as a demonstration of women’s work. For example, Fix-Habit is a Mending action project enacted by myself and Maria Flavia. In Toronto, we went out on mending-excursions dressed in workmen’s overalls with sewing kits and fixed things that need fixing around the city, such as broken fences, scaffolds. In my Sour Words stitching performance, I dress like a housewife in a robe and slippers but embroider naughty words instead of pretty samplers. There is a rich history of textile work being used as a form of resistance under the illusion of it being a gentle “women’s craft;” Mary Queen of Scots’ prison embroideries in the 1500s, women knitting coded messages in scarves for their husbands in war, the Gee’s Bend quilts, etc. I like playing with this idea - that things appear one way but when you look closer they reveal something much more significant. Kasityolainen, which means ‘craft worker’ in Finnish, is a performance in which I dress up as a Finnish craftswoman and I mend sweaters in a holistic way.

B.D.
Talk a bit about how the Fluxus movement inspired your work.
H.H.

There was a Fluxus exhibition at the Ateneum Museum in Helsinki in the 90s, when I was in my early teens and I was blown away by that art, which could be funny and humorous! My experience up until then had been more that art-making was a serious practice where you spent hours honing your skills. … Like did these artists even draw, at all…? I think seeing that exhibition pushed me further away from traditional art-making, such as painting. I went to see it many times on my own. I loved especially the Instructions works. That art could also be about creating a moment/ an action rather than a physical square object felt really exciting.

B.D.
You have been based in New York City for nearly 20-years. How has that city influenced your practice?
H.H.

The best art is always accessible in New York City. We lived in Chelsea for the first 10 years, a short walk from the gallery district. I really tried to take advantage and go to as many events and openings as I could. There is a constant flow of art and interesting people. The same goes with materials and educational resources: talks, seminars, classes, you can learn anything and find any material or an expert for anything you might need. Having so many different influences definitely makes you more open to experiment. Over the year, New York has loosened up my art-making and taught me that anything goes, if you do it well enough.

B.D.
You exhibited at Xtant 2024 and 2025 editions. What will you exhibit at the fair this year?
H.H.

Yes! And I am excited to return. This year I’ll exhibit some larger size white-on-white rectangular pieces. Vintage fabrics layered white and cream laces, hand-sewn. I started working on them about 10 years ago and they have been changing and growing ever since.

B.D.
You currently have a small showroom/studio in old-town Palma. What are you presenting there and how can people visit? Do they make an appointment?
H.H.

People are welcome to just stop by! Please send me a message on Instagram in advance if you come from far away. I’m currently working on a new piece for a New York Textile Month exhibition in the fall. I also have some Bloom pieces on display, some smaller framed works etc. It’s a great spot for me to experiment and test smaller ideas.

B.D.
What is something in Mallorca that you have been happy to discover?
H.H.

That there are so many celebrations for various thingswith music and people dancing in the streets :)!

@heidihankaniemi

B.D.
H.H.